How to Design and Install
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| Sump System Configurations and Radon Mitigation | ||
| Sump Set Up | Probable Situation | Will it work? |
| 2 pipies (A+B) entering basin parallel to foundation | Likely an interior drain-tile loop. | Excellent results can be expected. |
| 1 pipe (C) entering basin perpendicular to foundation | Usually means an exterior loop. Can be tied into an interior loop also. | Exterior systems can produce excellent results. Walkout basements may have only partial loops and daylight drains which can reduce effectiveness. |
| 1 pipe entering a sump centrally located in the basement | Likely an interior drain-tile loop | Excellent results can be expected. |
| 3 pipes (A,B,+C) | A combination interior and exterior loop. | Excellent results can be expected. |
| No pipes with weep holes and or an open bottom to the soil. | No drainage pipes or gravel can be expected. | Not a good location for a radon vent pipe. |
Interior French Drain/Drain Tile Example
Taking a look down the pipe with a flashlight or using a tape measure will verify the actually configuration of the system. Some times things aren't always what they seem to be, it's worth a look.
The vent pipe can either be located directly on top of the sump cover or into a hole made in the floor. If you have a sump pump in your pit that needs attention, placing a hole over the drain tile will allow for easier access to the sump when required. Or if your vent pipe's exit point from the basement is not near the sump, why not locate it there instead. Shorter pipe runs are always better. Just be sure that you can tap into the drain-tile or if you have gravel under the floor where you place the pipe.
Note with high air flows from drain-tile and gravel beds, 4" pipe is always the best bet.
For any radon mitigation sealing is very important. You don't want to draw the conditioned air out of your home and blow it out the roof.
So the sump requires a cover that can be sealed and clear is preferable to view water levels.
Here are some other considerations for sealing a sump for radon mitigation:
- If you have a pump it needs to be a submersible type for proper sealing.
- Do you have water that flows into the basin when it rains or if you have other appliances draining into the sump? You will want a special sump cover drain. These allow water down but stops air draw from the house.
- If you have any untrapped drains using the sump these will have to be retrofitted.
- A good design will allow for easy access to the sump basin by using an inspection plug. Otherwise the whole cover will have to be removed.
Radon Fan Selection for Sumps
- Smaller well sealed basements <1000 sq/ft can often be mitigated with the RP140 or XP201.
- For basements up to 1500 sq/ft the RP145 and the XP151 will usually produce good results.
- For larger basements the RP260 and RP265 fans are a good choice. I use the XR261 for outside installs because of their slim design. These fans are only beneficial with 4" pipe as these are 6" fans. 6" pipe is rarely required in residential radon mitigations.
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